In conversation with The Kayal Mag, chef partners of 'Kari Apla' - Chef Mathew & Ebaani share their thoughts on the irresistible allure of Non-Veg Onasadya and more.
K: Mathew, what are your childhood memories of Onam?
M: Even though we grew up outside Kerala, Onam was always a highlight for us. It was a special time at our church, usually celebrated on the Sunday before or the main day. I remember how the Fathers would get together in the church kitchen, cooking up a storm to prepare the Onasadya. Back in the 90s, with around 350 families involved, it felt like a big, cozy family gathering. There were skits and lots of laughter, and the whole day was filled with a sense of community and joy. Those memories are dear to me and have a special place in my heart.
K: What is the one food without which Onam is incomplete?
M: I have a sweet tooth, so it’s definitely ‘Payasam’ for me. Onam just wouldn’t be the same without that delicious, sweet treat. It’s what makes the celebration truly special for me.
K: What does Onam mean to Kari Apla?
M: This year, Onam is significant for us at Kari Apla. It’s our first time celebrating it here, and it’s something we’ve been looking forward to because we’re focusing on the flavours of Coastal India. For us, Onam is about embracing and representing our roots uniquely. While Onasadya is traditionally vegetarian, we wanted to put a fun twist on it by incorporating some non-vegetarian elements. Ultimately, it’s all about bringing people together and creating a memorable, inclusive community experience.
K: Ebaani, as a non-Malayali, what does Onam mean to you?
E: For me, Onam has always been about the delicious food. I didn’t fully appreciate the significance of the festival until college. What solidified its importance for me was our principal, Mrs. Tangam Philip. She’s a renowned educationalist, and under her influence, our college became a hub for multiple generations of Malayalees. Onam was celebrated there with great enthusiasm. We’d all dress up in sarees and mundus, and there would be a grand banana leaf meal served in batches. After college, I discovered that people celebrate Onam with Sadya outside of Kerala too, which was a wonderful surprise.
K: Why include non-veg in the Sadya?
M: Non-veg is such an integral part of Malayalee cuisine that it's hard to imagine a meal without it. For many Malayalees, a meal feels incomplete without their ‘erachi’, whether it’s fish curry or a crispy cutlet. My father, for example, never feels satisfied without his ‘Meen curry’. Even with simple meals like sambar rice and a vegetable thoran, there’s often a side of fish fry or a cutlet. We wanted to elevate the 'Onasadya' experience by incorporating these beloved non-veg elements, adding a new dimension to the traditional feast.
K: What is Kari Apla’s Onam menu this year?
M: This year, our Onam menu is a delightful blend of traditional Onasadya and some of our favorite non-veg dishes. We’re featuring 'Prawn peera', which Ebaani tried for the first time when she visited my home in Kerala. We’ll also have my mum’s famous 'Meen curry', Mutton cutlets, Squid roast, and Pepper chicken fry.
E: For the vegetarian part, we’re serving classics like 'Avial, Sambar, Inji Puli, Theeyal, & Pachadi'. And, of course, we’ll end the meal with a traditional sweet touch—'Payasam', and our Chef Mathew’s favourite ‘Kozhikatta’.
K: If you had to describe Onam as a feeling, what would it be?
M: To me, Onam is all about community. It’s the warmth and joy of friends and family coming together. For us, living as nuclear families outside Kerala, Onam was a special time when the sense of community really shone through. It was about coming together with other families, sharing food and stories, and enjoying the day as one big, extended family. It’s that feeling of connection and togetherness that defines Onam for me.
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