Niyati Rao: Head Chef & Partner, Ekaa
Ekaa is a culmination of Chef Niyati’s travels and culinary background that proved to be a driving force in bringing this concept to life. From training at the Taj Group of Hotels, Niyati went on to work at the top handpicked restaurants across the city like The Zodiac Grill, Wasabi by Morimoto, A Reverie and the like. Further on, Niyati also decided to take her experience and skills to the next level and had a stint at Noma, Copenhagen, the World’s Best Restaurant, before she finally came back to Mumbai in 2020. On returning from Copenhagen, Niyati wanted to put her insightful experience at Noma to use in a way that impacted the Indian culinary world. After much research and thought, she conceptualised and worked on the idea of building a restaurant whose cuisine is interpreted and inspired by people, cultures and ingredients. She recently was also part of the Forbes India 30 under 30 list for pioneering the Food and Beverage Industry. Another very important factor that went hand in hand with the inspiration for Ekaa was the seasons, childhood, places travelled and journey to this point of everyone at Ekaa. Along with an old colleague, Niyati set out to venture to fulfil her passion towards the Indian Dining Experience. After sharing her idea, it took almost a year of hard work to make this concept a reality and finally after a tedious year of setting up the restaurant, Ekaa was born!
Have you always imagined yourself in a chef’s hat? Did your early years weave a love for cooking into your story?
As a kid, I was a bit different. You see, I'm dyslexic, and back in the 90s in India, that didn't sit well with the education system. However, my home felt safe, as it should be for anyone. My mother and grandmother were amazing cooks; even on my dad's side, everyone knew their way around the kitchen. Our talks always circled back to food—breakfast discussions seamlessly transitioning into lunch plans, and the same happening with dinner.
My parents were from completely different worlds. My dad, a musician, and my mom, a scientist turned homemaker. It was like a cultural mashup at home with my dad speaking Telugu and my mom, Gujarati. Surprisingly, having both of them around was a blessing. They got me even when others thought I was a daydreamer. I was the creative one, always lost in my thoughts, which some kids at school didn't quite get. My parents, though, they understood. We traveled a lot as a family, exploring new places. The best part? They let me and my brother eat whatever we wanted. It was liberating, and that freedom shaped who I am today. Those childhood moments, filled with family, food, and encouragement, are the building blocks of who I've become.
I was drawn to history, art, culture, music, and dance. When my rescue used to come home, mom would cook. Standing by her side, I soaked up the magic of cooking. You know, when you grow up with someone who makes incredible food, you catch on early. It was so fascinating for me that when I was around 6 or 7, I decided I wanted to be a chef. People react as though we served them something ethereal. I could see right through their joy with my mom's food. It was like serving up a plate of magic
Succulent: Indian Avocado, Chocolate.
Do you have a special routine or habit that just feels natural when you're in the kitchen? Something heartwarming that you do every day as you step into that familiar space?
You know, when I'm cooking, there's this special moment after I finish each step. It's like a little ritual of mine. I just can't help but open the pot, soaking in the delicious progress. It might sound a bit quirky, but I do it all the time. There's just this joy in seeing and tasting the goodness coming together.
It's not a one-time thing because I do this every 10 minutes or so. Once I know something is good to go, I can't resist. Once I know something is ready, I can't help myself. I lift the lid, admire what's cooking, and maybe sneak a taste. It's like a mini celebration of each little accomplishment in the kitchen. And you know what else I do? I find myself opening the fridge a lot too. There's this odd comfort in checking on all the ingredients, ensuring everything's in place. It's like a little dance with my dishes, making sure they're perfect before they shine on the table. Call it quirky, but that's just how I make sure everything's spot on.
An homage to the two most iconic culinary delights of Bombay: the K Rustom ice cream sandwich & the Bombay sandwich, which make up an integral part of the spirit of Bombay and our childhood.
What does Ekaa mean to you?
Ekaa is like a world I've crafted, a place I've never been before, a space others couldn't create for me. The name itself, "matchless" and "unique," holds so much significance. It's not just about unique ingredients; it's about every person, their ideas, and how they see things. When I returned from NOA, Copenhagen, I realized India is incredibly diverse, bursting with produce that we often overlook.
I felt that outsiders have a skewed view of Indian cuisine, limited to just naan and butter chicken. It saddened me because we have so much more to offer. That's when I thought, "People will only respect us if we respect ourselves and our produce."
So, Ekaa came into being, using 99% Indian produce. It's a learning process, especially when it comes to sourcing lesser-known ingredients unique to India. I dream of creating a self-sufficient system. If a future chef like me goes abroad for training, I want them to proudly say, "Our place has groundbreaking stuff." I want to eliminate the shame and the racism I experienced. Ekaa isn't just about fine-tuned details in how we treat people; it extends to our thought process and every ingredient we use. I want everyone, from my grandma's age and beyond, to dine here without feeling inferior. Ekaa is more than an establishment. It's a celebration of who we are and what we can offer to the world.
Sea Urchin / Uni/ Moora (மூரை)
Sourced from a remote fishing village in the south of India , these sea urchins are hand caught by local divers.
What's the most surprising ingredient you've ever added to your cooking that turned out incredibly delicious?
I use a variety of ingredients every day, however, there's this special ingredient called Gunda, or gum berries. It's not very well-known, and I didn't even know much about it until I reached out to my grandma and the chefs had to help us figure it out. It's funny how we can be clueless about certain ingredients, right? Then there's this unique experience I had with trout from Kashmir.
But here's the real surprise. My chef and I were just playing around with a pickle experiment. We had a bunch of watermelon lying around, usually something we'd toss away. But this time, we turned it into a pickle, and guess what? It ended up tasting like mango. Can you believe that?
When I was a kid, I had this fascination with malt powders because I loved drinks like Complan and Horlicks. I wanted to create an adult version of those flavors. So, I reached out to the malt industry, got a variety of extracts and powders, and started experimenting. I made a simple gelato, threw it in some bread, and the result was this unexpectedly delicious thing that tasted just like Horlicks. It's like indulging in a childhood favorite but in a whole new, exciting way.
Indian Durian: Usually, the durian is characterised by a pungent, sweet aroma with notes of onion.
What makes your EKAA’s kitchen different & special?
You know, when it comes to Ekaa's kitchen, it's all about keeping things tidy. Some folks might think pro kitchens are chaotic, but not ours. I take pride in having one of the neatest kitchens in India. It's not just a place to cook, it's like an open book. I love having a super clean kitchen – probably one of the tidiest in India!
My kitchen isn't just for cooking, it's just out in the open. Guests drop by, talk to us, and get to witness the magic of cooking happening right in front of them. I love that transparency and honesty – it's like we're sharing our cooking journey with them.
And let me tell you, there's always something exciting going on in our kitchen. Pots simmering away, jars filled with mysterious concoctions, cooking bags with ingredients vacuum-sealed, and a bit of fermenting magic in the corner. It's a lively place, filled with youthful energy. We kicked off this adventure when we were just 26, and that energy still runs strong.
Sure, it can get a bit crazy at times, but since our kitchen is open, we've got it all under control. That youthful vibe is what makes it so enjoyable. No insecurities, no generation gaps – just a group of young minds evolving together. It's a recipe for success and a whole lot of fun!
Do you have a favorite dish at EKAA, that one special meal that always brings you back for more?
Oh, nope! People ask me that a bunch. The easiest way to decide is by asking myself, "What do I crave right now?" That becomes my go-to for the day. I enjoy pork mince—it's just so delicious. And then there's Mochi, a recent addition to our menu that I fell in love with. It comes down to whatever suits my mood at the moment!
Buffalo Milk Brie: New Brunch Ingredient at EKAA. Creamier, with extra rind, richer, milder, almost floral.
As we conclude our conversation, what's something about food that you wish everyone could just get?
You know, food is pretty incredible. It's not just about satisfying our hunger but the emotions it stirs up in us. I've had days when my wallet was feeling light, but a good meal made everything better. It's like food has this magical ability to find its way to those who appreciate it.
I believe we underestimate the power of food. It's not just something that fills our tummies. It can bring people together, stop conflicts, and bring joy like nothing else. I mean, think about it — music may touch our hearts, ears, and brains, but food, now that engages all our senses. That's some serious power right there.
And let's not forget to give a shout-out to the unsung heroes—the home cooks. They whip up deliciousness tirelessly, and even a personal chef might find it challenging to keep up. Whenever I sit down to a good meal, I can't help but think of all those hardworking homemakers, especially the moms and grandmas. They deserve all the thanks because, behind every great chef, there's usually an amazing home cook.
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