Maska

In this conversation with The Kayal Mag’s Editor, Athira Nair, Founder and Pastry Chef Heena shares her thoughts on the charm of heritage bakeries, Maska, and more. 

A: How would you describe Maska as a feeling?

H: I think ‘Maska’ is all about comfort and joy. For me, it’s about – You know, those old Bombay bakeries that we used to go to, and not necessarily the fanciest. But every time you went there you were happy. I have memories of going to numerous bakeries as a kid — Yasdani, Sassanian, Kayani, Paris Bakery. And it was just all about ‘Oh, I’m going to get a treat’ and the whole experience was so joyful. As I grew up, and travelled further I explored bakeries in unfamiliar cities that then became places of comfort for me. 

No matter what city you’re in – a bakery is the same. It’s the aroma of cake, & coffee. The familiarity lies in the little big things. And it’s this feeling that Maska is all about. Familiarity, comfort, & joy. 

A: What is the one ingredient that has stayed with you since you were a kid?

H: Chuckles. Oh, my mom is going to kill me for this! But, it’s coffee. 

I was a fussy kid, and wouldn't drink my milk. Besides, I wasn't a fan of Bournvita or anything remotely close to Malt. So, my mother would put a pinch of coffee and that was the only way I would have my milk. As I grew the ratios and portions increased, of course. Though I’ve become selective, I still love everything about coffee. The coffee walnut at Naturals is my favourite. In fact, we just made an eclair inspired by the flavour. I used to love the little toffee – The coffee bites. There’s going to be a dessert inspired by that, too.  

A: Why the name Maska?

H: So, I thought a lot about the name, and over the years everything else was clear to me except the name. I always felt the name had to be perfect, you know. I spoke to different people and thought about it so much. 

But nothing felt perfect until I called all my girlfriends and we did this brainstorming session, and we put post-its on the wall, and the exercise was just – When you think of Bombay: what comes to your mind? Two years ago, I had done a similar exercise with my cousin and one of the names she had suggested was ‘Maska’. 

The minute I put up the post its on the wall, everyone looked at it and was like ‘Okay, we have it. It’s Maska!’ Maska is very Bombay. My earliest memory of a bakery is having Bun Maska with my dad. My dad loves Bun Maska, even now. 

A: Had it not been Maska, what do you think the name would have been?

H: There were many contenders, but as I said nothing fit well. The one that I liked was The Baykery. I thought it was funny and smart but then everyone felt it could be just too confusing. 

You know, if you’d ask someone ‘Where did you get it from?’ And they’d say ‘From The Baykery!’  Which I thought was very cute. But then, again it didn't fit/ feel right.

A: What is the one thing that you do, as soon as you enter the kitchen every single day?

H: I ask, how my team is doing. ‘Hey, how are you guys doing!’  That’s the first thing -every day. I believe it’s this team coming together and not just me, while I’ll come up with the recipes or the ideas or train them, etc. But it’s the team that does it in the end. So, I’ll come in and ask how’s everyone doing and then we start our day.

A: Do you have a peculiar habit in the kitchen that you just can’t have enough of?

H: Actually, my mum would be very proud of me. In general, I am very particular about measurements, I mean baking when it comes down to it, it’s science. We measure everything, including our eggs and flour and everything down to the last gram. But also, when I am taking ingredients from the bowl - I will scrape till the last little bit of everything. 

I think my mum would be very proud of me, because at home when I used to just take stuff she’d exasperate ‘There’s so much left in the bowl. You are  wasting so much!’ So, yeah I am sure she would be proud of me today. 

A: What is your favourite at Maska?

H: Oh, that’s a tough one! I do have some favourites, but it also changes. For me, dessert is a mood. So sometimes I’m in the mood for chocolate. We do Mava Madeleines at Maska and they have to be sort of perfect and the imperfect ones come to me. Chuckles. Because the girls know, If I’m having my coffee, then I like a Mava Madeline with it. 

But if I am in the mood for something indulgent  –Like we just literally did Banoffee Cake on the menu and that’s my current favourite. And of course, The Kejriwal is the permanent favourite - It’s basically ‘babka’ that’s swirled with green Chutney & Cheese and it just takes me back to the chutney sandwiches that mum used to make for picnics or the ones we used to have at the theatres, so that is a perennial favourite. 

I love the Rose Cookies - I find them amazing as a concept to separate what we have. They are also like, crispy and crunchy and chocolaty. But yeah, I have a lot of favourites, so this could go on & on.  It depends on my mood, let me put it that way. 

A: What are the little things you enjoy the most? 

H: Oh, there’s so many of them! Reading a really good book. That moment of peace when you’re frosting a cake. Running on the beach. A feeling of sand on your toes. Watching a dish is coming together so well. Eating an ice cream. Picnics. Yes. Picnics, basically food with nature is the best. 

A: Oh, that’s indeed a sweet list! If you had to describe Maska in three words what would that be?

H: I think the first thing would be ‘Comfort’. Like I said, for me baking and pastry is not and intellectual exercise. I mean, it’s fun to be creative and to come up with new ideas but in the end, if you're having a dessert it should touch your heart. It’s just all about joy and comfort. 

The second would be ‘Contemporary’. While we are taking classics or things that we have travelled with/ have memories with - We are not here to reproduce. We are here to recreate something that fits into the modern city while it still inspires the old world charm and nostalgia. 

And I think the third would be ‘Bombay’. It’s just so inspired by Bombay. Earlier, when I’d just come out of the Pastry school I used to think, ‘Oh, I’d have a fancy French Patisserie!’. But as I grew up my thoughts evolved & I realised that we have such a rich baking tradition that has become a part of our culture. Whether it’s the Mava cakes or the Nan katai or some particular biscuits like the Shrewsbury, or cakes that are international like Pineapple or Blackforest, etc. But we still consider them like they are ours. The idea of Maska was to celebrate that. To celebrate things that are familiar and joyful to us & that’s all about Bombay. 

Because “I feel that Bombay is this culinary melting pot. Everybody comes here and Bombay takes the best of everything and gives it its spin.”  You know, Bombay does that whether it’s architecture, art, languages or food. It just takes it in and makes it’s own. And that’s what we want to do at Maska.